Thursday 18 January 2006 Rodney’s pretty good at knitting. Spot the tea cosy. In progress, a headband for Sandra. When he ventures out to light the gas ‘central heating’ boiler in the outhouse at the bottom of the garden Rodney could do with some sweep’s overalls to protect against the soot. Yesterday evening the first-in-line radiator, the one in our bedroom, was barely warm after four hours. The gas pressure is still pathetic - half an hour to boil a saucepan of water. The Dushanbe Scottish Country Dancers gather on Wednesday evenings in the Padida Theatre practice room. I forgot to take my camera yesterday – I’ll try and remember next week - but here is a photo of us dancing last St Andrew’s Day at the British Ambassador’s residence. The group is a great mix of expatriates and young Tajiks. The Tajiks love dancing and most have a natural sense of rhythm. Language doesn’t seem to be a barrier. Everyone enjoyed Strip the Willow.

Wednesday 18 January 2006 This morning there's a hard frost and bright sunshine, a pleasant change after some dismal grey days of snow and fog. The views of the surrounding snow-covered hills and mountains are wonderful. On Monday the power went out at half past ten in the morning, only coming back on at four next morning. I began cooking dinner around half past four in the afternoon when the gas supply came on. But the gas pressure was so low it was barely enough to cook, and we eventually dined by candlelight around eight pm when the gas went off. Then straight off to bed. The forecast for the next few days is for more sun and frost but with heavy snow on Sunday. We seem to be very focused on keeping warm, cooking warm food, keeping ourselves and our clothes clean these days.

On Tuesday our convoy of two 4WD vehicles left Khorog at 5 am and we arrived home in Dushanbe at 9.30 pm. As it was the Eid Al Adha holiday, restaurants along the way were closed. Fortunately we'd stocked up with a haversack of fruit and some snacks before setting out and we did find a small place where we stopped briefly for tea and freshly baked Tajik bread. Arriving home we were delighted to find that we all utilities were working - electricity, water and even a low-pressure gas supply. Our accumulated laundry went in the washing machine to be put out first thing the next morning. More snow fell overnight. Right now it's foggy and the snow is gradually melting.

Monday 9 January, Khorog, Gorno Badakhshan Since we arrived in Khorog last Wednesday it's been cold - minus 25 degrees centigrade. Today though it's warmer and snowing. Tomorrow we head back to Dushanbe, another 18-hour trip by road as there will be no plane.